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Discover how Optical Image Stabilization (OIS) and In-Body Image Stabilization (IBIS) work together to prevent camera shake.
Learn how OIS makes use of gyroscopic sensors.
Consider turning off OIS and IBIS when you want to save battery life.
Photo 2025 © Dominic Stone | FUJIFILM X-E5 and FUJINON XF500mmF5.6 R LM OIS WR, 1/640 sec at F7.1, ISO 200
Back in the day, before camera technologies got really clever, there was only one way to ensure you got shake-free images: putting your camera on a solid tripod. As soon as the camera was off the tripod, there was always the possibility of camera shake spoiling your photographs.
However, more recently image stabilization technologies have been created to help reduce the chances of camera shake happening when photographing handheld. Fujifilm uses two systems: Optical Image Stabilization (OIS) and In-Body Image Stabilization (IBIS). Let’s take a look at each in turn.
Photo 2024 © Rick Fichter | FUJIFILM X-H2 and FUJINON XF500mmF5.6 R LM OIS WR, 1/3200 sec at F5.6, ISO 1600
Photo 2024 © Rick Fichter | FUJIFILM X-H2 and FUJINON XF500mmF5.6 R LM OIS WR, 1/3200 sec at F5.6, ISO 1600
Fujifilm’s optical image stabilization (OIS) system is found in selected XF, XC, and GF lenses. Put simply, if your lens name has OIS in it, it has an image stabilization system built in. OIS is designed to combat camera shake caused by horizontal or vertical movement. To do this, a series of gyroscopic sensors within the lens make thousands of calculations per second to calculate when and how the lens is moving. One of the lens elements, which is motorized, is then moved to combat the shake. It’s why you can hear an internal whirring on an OIS lens when the system is active.
The OIS systems in XF and XC lenses offer varying levels of image stabilization. Some lenses, such as the FUJINON XF500mmF5.6 R LM OIS WR, offer up to 5.5 stops of compensation, while others offer less than this. But it’s down to the individual photographer to ascertain how much compensation they can actually achieve.
Photo 2026 © AV Schofield
Photo 2026 © AV Schofield
To do this, attach your OIS lens and select the Shutter Priority exposure mode. With the OIS system turned off, make an exposure at 1/125 sec and then check image sharpness. If it’s sharp, try 1/60 sec and check again. Keep doing this, selecting a longer shutter speed each time, until you spot camera shake in your image.
Now, turn OIS on and repeat the process using progressively longer shutter speeds until you see shake again – all being well, this will be a longer shutter speed than you managed with the OIS turned off.
The difference in the two shutter speeds is the number of stops you can achieve personally. For example, if you could achieve shake-free images with OIS off at 1/60 sec and with it on at 1/8 sec, that’s three stops of compensation. Remember this for each one of your OIS lenses.
While OIS is lens-based, there is an option on your camera that allows you to choose when OIS works. Go to the SHOOTING SETTING menu and choose IS MODE, where you’ll have two options: CONTINUOUS or SHOOTING ONLY.
On the CONTINUOUS option, the OIS system is always active when the camera is on. On the SHOOTING ONLY option, OIS system activation is determined by Focus Mode. In AF-S mode, lens stabilization is only activated when the shutter is fully released, while in AF-C mode, lens stabilization is activated when the shutter is pressed halfway. To maximize battery life, choose SHOOTING ONLY. This function also works for IBIS.
In-body image stabilization (IBIS) is only available on some X Series and GFX system cameras and offers a more sophisticated level of image stabilization. Where OIS works in two axes only, IBIS works in five, and compensates for vertical and horizontal movement, plus roll, pitch, and yaw.
With this system, over five stops of compensation is possible and it works irrespective of the lens in use. This is because, rather than an element in the lens being used to compensate movement, the camera’s sensor itself is moved.
While great for making still images, IBIS also comes into its own when making handheld video footage and prevents ‘bouncing’ movies when you’re filming and walking at the same time.
As great as IBIS and OIS are, there will be some occasions when you don’t want to use them:
When you want to maximize battery life: OIS and IBIS use more battery power. If you’re running low on juice, or want the longest possible time making images, switch them off.
When shooting video using the internal microphone: If you’re recording video with OIS or IBIS on, be sure to capture sound using a separate microphone or recorder. This is because the camera’s internal microphone will likely pick up the whirr of the stabilization system as it does its job.
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