Features & Functions

Get Creative with Multiple Exposures Learning how to combine multiple images is a fun way to get creative with your photography and frame everyday subjects in a new and interesting way

5 min read

In the days of film photography, creating a multiple exposure was a cool, if unpredictable, way to achieve an in-camera special effect, superimposing one image over the top of another.

The principle was very simple: make the first image, then make the second one without winding on the film. The only problem was that the results were often hit-and-miss and hard to control.

Thankfully, in X Series digital cameras, multiple exposures are easier to create and predict, and give superb results, too – no post-production needed!

How to Get Started with Multiple Exposures

Start by selecting MULTIPLE EXPOSURE mode. How this is done will vary according to the camera model you have. Generally, it is accessed via the DRIVE button or dial – the function is indicated by two overlapping squares.

Silhouette of a person walking in a tunnel with colorful, swirling light trails above and around, creating a dynamic, abstract scene.

Photo 2022 © Tom Baumgaertel | FUJIFILM X-H2S camera and XF16-80mmF4 R OIS WR, 1 sec at F4.4, ISO 200

What Are the Different Types of Multiple Exposure Mode?

With the mode selected, you have four further options to choose from: ADDITIVE, AVERAGE, LIGHT, or DARK. Taking each in turn:

Multiple Exposure Additive

The first X Series multiple exposure mode works similarly to traditional film photography. Like layering images on a strip of film, the sensor combines each exposure directly on top of the previous one. As a result, if you're working in bright lighting or stacking multiple images, the final photo can be overexposed.

Multiple Exposure Average

The second mode addresses the overexposure issue by automatically balancing the exposure of all images in the final frame. It doesn’t prioritize light or dark areas, resulting in an evenly blended image where subjects appear with a soft, ghost-like effect.

Photo © Caroline Tran

Multiple Exposure Light

This is the first of two modes that strongly emphasize light or dark areas in the frame. In this mode, the brighter areas of your first image will stay prominent, while the darker areas will be almost completely replaced by the second exposure. This creates a distinctive effect that will significantly impact your choice of subjects.

Multiple Exposure Dark

This mode is the exact opposite of the previous one. The subject of your second exposure will only appear over the bright areas of the first image. Unlike MULTI EXPOSURE AVERAGE, which creates a subtle, ghost-like blend, this mode produces a more striking effect with clearly defined edges where the images overlap.

How to Make a Multiple Exposure

Now you’re ready to make the first image, which you can do as normal. Your camera will ask if you are happy and want to proceed to the second image, or if you’d like to recreate the first one (NEXT or RETRY). If you’re happy with your starting image, choose NEXT by pressing the MENU OK button.

As you create the second image, you’ll notice you can see a ghost of the first image over the top. This is there to help you compose and take some of the guesswork out of the process.

When you’ve made your second image, you’ll again be asked if this is OK or if you want to try again (NEXT or RETRY). Keep adding images – up to nine can be combined in a single frame – and once you’re happy with the result, press the DISP/BACK button. The multiple exposure image is saved to the memory card as a JPEG file alongside all the regular images.

Creative Ideas for Multiple Exposures

Try picking subjects that complement or contrast each other in terms of color and texture. They don’t have to be the same thing – an architectural image looks great with a frame full of flowers superimposed over the top of it, for instance.

You’ll find that putting something dark over the top of an already dark object gives a very dark result, just as superimposing two light objects gives a result that’s too bright. To get around this, either compose to avoid dark-on-dark/light-on-light situations or use the exposure compensation control, just as you would normally.

Also notice that the second image will show through the first picture in areas that are dark. You can use this to your advantage by first framing silhouettes against a bright sky, then framing intricate details that fill in the dark area.

Silhouetted person walking on a bridge against a vibrant orange sunset sky, with tall buildings and clouds in the background.

Here are a few more ideas:

Try combining a landscape or architectural scene with a reflection of the same thing in a nearby river or lake.
Photograph the same subject twice – first normally and then with intentional camera movement.
Create a portrait, photographing the same person in profile and straight on.